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The history of St. Martin in the Bull Ring is a fascinating and complex story closely intertwined with the growth of Birmingham from a handful of dwellings to become Britain’s ‘second city’.

The exact beginnings are unclear and disputed by historians, but the first “definite” de Bermingham – Wiiliam – became ‘enfeoffed’ of the manor of Birmingham in the reign of King Henry I (1100–1135). This was no great prize as the land was of minimal value being largely scrubland with little or no forestry. Birmingham was one of the poorest manors in Warwickshire.

However, his enterprising son, Peter, saw potential, recognising the bridge across the river Rea as an ideal location for a market. Permission was granted by King Henry II in the mid-12^th century. The market thrived, and so did the de Berminghams who built a fortified manor house with a circular moat, and the population expanded from about fifty people in 1086 to a population of one thousand five hundred by 1300. There is some uncertainty about the date of the first church or chapel, but by the end of 13^th century the de Berminghams had built St. Martin’s as a place of Christian worship, a sandstone structure with tower and spire rising high among the growing number of dwellings, forges, traders and craftsmen. The de Berminghams remained lords of the manor until cheated out of their land in the Tudor years, but St. Martin’s remains, as do the markets, and although the building and the surroundings have changed in so many ways, St. Martin’s is still a testament to their story and the earliest roots of our city.

By the end of the 17^th century the sandstone structure needed considerable repair. Equally the population had continued to thrive and burgeon, and the medieval church struggled to provide sufficient seats for those who wished to attend worship. The solution was to encase the existing building and tower in brickwork, while across the succeeding century various radical internal modifications were made in efforts to increase capacity and ‘improve’ the church. The building was unloved, and it is said that St. Martin’s looked like a factory except for the lack of smoke emanating from the spire.

So with little regret the building was dismantled and rebuilt in the 1870s to a Victorian neo-Gothic design by the Birmingham architect, Alfred Chatwin. Consecrated on 20^th July 1875 by the Lord Bishop of Worcester, it was claimed to be ‘a magnificent structure and one of the finest churches in the country’. Buildings invariably change and adapt, and under successive Rectors alterations have been made, but largely the building that stands today is Chatwin’s design, with the tower and spire both heavily modified across the centuries and yet largely as they were 700+ years before. Perhaps most significantly, St. Martin’s, as it was in its earliest inception, sits firmly in the heart of Birmingham, and although the city continues to grow and develop, this church remains, an iconic reminder of our heritage and a powerful witness to the Christian faith.

St. Martin’s encourages and welcomes visitors – those who wish to join us for worship; those who wish to enjoy the peace and sanctuary; but also those who wish to learn more of our story and enjoy this beautiful and inspiring building. There is so much to see, and too much to tell on the pages of a website. So we encourage you to come and find us and spend some time discovering St. Martin in the Bull Ring.

The St. Martin from who the church takes its name was born in Hungary in 317AD but was brought up in Italy. His father was a Roman military tribune, who planned a military career for his son but, as a boy, Martin was attracted to the Christian faith. However, he was forced to join the Roman cavalry aged 15.

Soon after, during a bitterly cold winter, Martin was riding into Amiens when he encountered a virtually naked beggar, trembling with cold. He had already given away everything except his equipment and his uniform, so he drew his sword and cut his cloak in half, giving one piece to the beggar and wrapping himself in the remaining half.

In that night, in a dream, Martin saw Jesus dressed in the beggar’s half of his robe, saying to the angels surrounding him, ‘Martin, yet a catechumen, has clothed me with his garment’. Taking courage from the dream, Martin went on to be baptised. He later left the army, was ordained, served as a monk, and later became the Bishop of Tours. He led a remarkable life of faith with an enormous impact.

In the 13^th century the de Bermingham family was united in marriage to a French family, the FitzAnsculfs, whose ancestral home was near Amiens. It is quite possible that this personal link is the reason that St. Martin was chosen as the patron saint of the family built church of Birmingham.

The Burne-Jones Window

The window sited in the south transept – or south chapel – is a double treasure as it combines the work of the pre-Raphaelite craftsmen Edward Burne-Jones and William Morris. Burne-Jones was responsible for designing the figures which were then made and installed by William Morris & Company. Erected in 1875, it is one of the earliest examples of the work of the pre-Raphaelite masters.

Either side of the figure of Jesus, entitled ‘Rex Omnipotens’, the top tier illustrates the four gospel writers Matthew, Mark, Luke and John. The middle tier contains significant characters from the Old Testament – Moses, Elijah, Melchizedek, David and Solomon. The bottom tier illustrates the Annunciation, the Nativity, the Visit of the Magi, Jesus’ dead body being taken from the cross, and then being placed into the tomb of Joseph of Arimathea. The arch of the window contains several cut outs of angels with musical instruments, censors or a scroll.

The window was very nearly shattered in the Second World War. In April 1941, the Bishop of Birmingham, Dr William Barnes, angry with the church for taking no action to preserve its treasure, ordered the window to be removed and placed in safe keeping. The very night it was taken down, a bomb was dropped just outside the west end of the church. This window was packed in boxes waiting to be taken to the cellars of the College of Arts and Crafts in Margret Street and was the only window in St. Martin’s to be saved.

The East Window

Our east window, which replaced the one destroyed by enemy action during the Blitz, incorporates glass recovered from the old window. It depicts the cross of Jesus entwined with vine branches fruitfully bearing large bunches of grapes, representing the words of Jesus, “I am the vine and you are the branches.” Eight pictures of Jesus’ miracles of healing and parables are included in the window. These are: the Good Samaritan; the healing of the ruler’s son; Christ healing the withered hand; Christ healing the leper; Christ healing the Centurian’s servant; Christ restoring the sight of blind Bartimaeus; the return of the prodigal son; and the healing of the man at the pool.

Along the lower panels are depicted people of Birmingham from the war and post-war years including servicemen and women, some from the Land Army, a couple about to be married, a midwife, the Lord Mayor of Birmingham, the Rector of Birmingham and children playing – people from all walks of life.

It has been said that the design of the window represented light, hope, healing and new growth after all the darkness, death and destruction of war. It certainly must have been very inspiring to the people of Birmingham who first came to see the restored window in the 1950s.

The magnificent alabaster reredos under the window shows several key scenes from Holy Week: the entry into Jerusalem; the cleansing of the Temple; the Last Supper; the Agony in Gethsemane and the Kiss of Betrayal.

The Monuments

The story of St. Martin’s is closely linked to that of the de Bermingham family who settled in this tiny hamlet around 1100 and were the founders of St. Martin’s church. The de Bermingham family were the lords of the manor and lived in a moated manor house a bowshot away from the church. We are fortunate to have memorials to three members of the family in St. Martin’s. They can be found in the Guild Chapel.

The oldest – and the oldest memorial in any building in Birmingham – dates back to 1325 and is thought to be Sir William de Bermingham (one of a number named William). Then there is a monument to Sir Fulk de Bermingham dating from 1350. Both monuments are heavily worn away and much detail is lost. In a 1925 history of the church, it says they have suffered from the “hands of time and the feet of the window cleaner”, positioned, as they once were, beneath windows in an aisle.

The third is an alabaster monument said to be Sir John de Bermingham dated 1390.

The existence of such monuments is testimony to the success the de Bermingham’s had in growing the tiny hamlet to a thriving little town by 14^th century with St. Martin’s standing proudly amongst the growing number of dwellings, the smoky little foundries, and all the traders and craftsmen.

There are over 40 further memorials and monuments distributed around our building – although predominantly in the south transept – for visitors to discover and read, each with something to say about the story of our church.

The Bells

The ringing of church bells has been a significant part of the story of St. Martin’s and remains a much valued and important part of the active life of our church today. It seems there was a bell tower as far back as the mid-14th century and across the years the bells – and the tower that is their home – have undergone many changes and developments. However, many centuries on, our bells are still rung faithfully each Sunday between 10-11am by the St. Martin’s Band of Sunday Service Ringers and then every other Tuesday evening between 7.30-9.00pm when they gather for practice.

Church bells are rung to call God’s people to worship but also to mark important occasions in the life of individuals, the church and the nation, for example the coronation of King Charles.

Change ringing is an exceptional art form that involves ringing a set of tuned bells in a specific order to create a musical cascade of sound. Ringers pull ropes to control the bells, which are mounted on wheels above them. The ringers must coordinate their actions, feeling the bell’s movement through the rope, hearing the other bells, and keeping track of their place in the sequence. This requires great skill founded on hours of practice and developed through years of experience. Sometimes a peal may last many hours which demands enormous concentration and considerable physical effort.

St. Martin’s Band of Sunday Service Ringers is made up of many gifted ringers of different ages and levels of experience, but together they show enormous commitment and special talent to bless the city of Birmingham with the music of bells. This is even more remarkable as St. Martin’s is unique in the United Kingdon in having 16 bells – more than any other church or cathedral. It is believed there are only three churches in the world with this number of bells and St. Martin’s was the first. The sixteen bells were first rung on 29 August 1991. Thanks to the wonderful St. Martin’s Band the bells are still making ‘a joyful noise to the Lord’ (Psalm 100) and calling the people of Birmingham to worship.

Unfortunately for safety reasons it is not possible for visitors to physically see the bells or climb the tower, however, it is possible to see and learn more about our bells when visiting St. Martin’s. Additionally, you may wish to visit during Birmingham Heritage Week when guided tours are given of the bell ringing chamber, and the art and history of bell ringing at St. Martin’s explained in greater detail by members of our Band.

The Organ

In the Christian faith, music is integral to the worship of God. The use of different instruments and forms of music are encouraged in the Bible – e.g. Psalm 150, Colossians 3 v16. Musical variety and richness has been part of the whole history of the Church, and used to inspire the people of God to give Him praise and glory.

This variety and richness can still be found each week at St. Martin’s. Part of this tradition is our magnificent church organ which is played most Sundays as part of our musical worship to God.

The Guild of the Holy Cross – so important in the life of our church and in the emerging life of Birmingham – probably provided the first organ at St. Martin’s (as they did our first church clock and bells). However, it is likely that St. Martin’s did not always have an organ but since parishioners determined for an organ to be erected in 1725, these remarkable instruments have formed part of the ongoing worship of this church.

The current pipe organ is by Harrison & Harrison and dates from 1906. Originally it was a three manual instrument situated on the north side of the chancel (where the Guild Chapel is today) but in 1955 it was re-built as a four manual organ and moved to the north transept by John Compton. The opening recital was given by George Thalben-Ball on 30 March 1955.